Behind the scenes · 21 Aug 2026 · 1 min read
The making of the AW25 overcoat
Marta Coelho
Head of Styling
The overcoat in this season's collection took eleven months from first sketch to the first production piece. Most of that time went into one detail.
Fourteen samples
The first samples were made in a single-faced wool that looked right and wore badly. Moving to a double-faced cloth from a second mill solved the drape and created a new problem at the collar.
The collar
A double-faced collar has no lining to hide the join, so every seam is finished by hand. It took three months of samples before it sat flat without a stand.
